Enchanted in Laos

It was with a very heavy heart that I left Vietnam. I somehow felt that I was leaving a part of myself behind. It also didn’t help that I was embarking on a 36 hour journey. So off I went, back to Hanoi and then on the road to Luang Prabang in Laos. My long journey was spent between sleep and thought. When I was awake I couldn’t listen to music since my phone had no more battery, and I couldn’t seem to focus on reading. And so, looking out the window at the beautiful mountains in the background and the lush greenery zooming past, I reflected on my last 3 months of travels. I thought of the places I had been, the people I met along the way, and all that I experienced in between. I felt sad about leaving Vietnam but I was looking forward to my adventures to come. I thought about how sad I had been to leave Bali, but how awesome the Philippines had turned out to be, and likewise how sad I was to leave the Philippines when the time came to head to Vietnam. It dawned on me that no matter how long you’ve been travelling for, there are some feelings you can never really shake off: the bittersweet feeling of leaving a place you love as you continue your journey, and the feeling of dread when packing up the few belongings you have into your little home that is your backpack.

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I was immediately enchanted by the stunning natural beauty of Laos. The misty mountain peaks edging around the jungle-clad valleys are sure to impress even the most jaded traveler. Eventually we made it to Luang Prabang 27 hours after leaving Hanoi. After so much time spent together on the bus, a couple of us formed a pack to search for a hostel. The next day, Marina (from Germany), Sabine (from the Netherlands) and I rented scooters and made our way to the popular Kuang Si Waterfalls. After a breathtakingly scenic ride along the countryside we made it to the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, (inside Kuang Si Waterfall park). Run by Free the Bears, an organization that rescues endangered Asiatic Black Bears from poachers and bear bile farms, the sanctuary does not receive any money from the waterfall park admission and relies on donations only.

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Eventually we made it to the waterfalls, which were even more grand and beautiful than I thought they would be. The large multi-stage waterfall consists of multiple pools at different levels that you can swim in, and are swarming with the little fish that pick at your dead skin that you tend to see at fish spas all over South East Asia.

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After a day of swinging off the Tarzan rope and jumping from one pool to the next, we made our way up the 190 steps to Phou Si/Chomsy Hill to get a beautiful panoramic view of the city and watch the sunset. This was truly an amazing place to get a bird’s-eye view of incredibly romantic Luang Prabang, with its glittering temples, brightly colored robed monks and sleepy riverine lifestyle.

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That night we went to the night market for dinner where for 15,000 kip (roughly $1.50) you can fill your bowl with as much food as you want/can. Challenge accepted. After stuffing our faces, we made our way to Utopia bar where we met up with our bus buddies. Once the bar closed at 1am we made our way to the only place that stays open late – the bowling alley. Full of backpackers looking to keep the party going, I felt like I was at a kid’s birthday party. But as the game started and the beer kept flowing, I started to get the hang of it. I even coined the “Melissa Style” bowling method to try to up my game, which was essentially the same method I used when I was a kid and too weak to throw the ball with one hand, using both arms to launch the ball through my legs. While this initially garnered attention due to the fact that I looked like an idiot, after I started striking out more and more people followed my lead in hopes of improving their game. The cherry on top was when the tuk-tuk driver dropped us off at our hostel and pointed at me, then proceeded to imitate the “Melissa Style” bowling method. Priceless.

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The next day, Marina and I had a long breakfast (delicious baguette and coffee, what else?) and enjoyed the town’s picturesque charm, watching local life pass by. At night we headed to the night market, which seemed to stretch on for miles and miles, showcasing the best Laotian wares – intricate weavings, elaborate silver trinkets (sometimes made out of unexploded mines leftover from the previous decades of seemingly endless wars), and tasty specialty foods. We went to Gary’s Irish Bar for some good live music (and a free beer between 8-10pm) and ended the night at the infamous Sakura Bar (famous for its “drink triple, see double, act single” tank tops worn by backpackers across Southeast Asia, which you can get for free for every purchase of two vodka drinks).

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Our next stop was the thriving tourist center of Vang Vieng, commonly known for being the backpacker mecca for partying. Although things have seemed to calm down quite a bit since the government has cracked down on the number of bars in the area, Vang Vieng seems to have established itself as the exception to the rule that Laos doesn’t have a nightlife. Besides that though, the limestone cliffs and riverside scenery remain gorgeous and offer a lot of potential as a base for adventure tourism if that’s your thing. While the main attraction for many visitors remains the tubing (read: 20-something year old backpackers), it’s quite easy to avoid the party scene and use the town as a base to explore the surrounding countryside. After a night of indulging the party scene, Marina and I decided to skip the traditional tubing experience and instead went on a day trip outside the city. We swam through a cave on tubes and went kayaking down the Nam Song river (that covers the same part of the river as tubing and a more untouched part further upstream).

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The next day was raining so we took advantage of the situation and spent the day eating pancakes and watching Friends at a restaurant near our hostel and ended the day with an amazing traditional Lao massage. Unfortunately I only had one week in Laos, since I stayed a bit longer than expected in Vietnam, so I didn’t get to see as much of Laos as I had planned. Having said that, I heard amazing things about trekking in the far northern provinces, the mysterious Plaine des Jarres, the lazy island life in the far south, exploring the ‘in between’ in Pakse and the 4000 Islands at the border of Cambodia.

Destinations aside, Lao food is sure to entice the inner foodie in you. Spicy buffalo salad (that I hadn’t tried personally, being a boring vegetarian and all), sticky rice, noodles, curries and the culinary remnants of French colonial occupation in the form of delicious crunchy baguettes and sweet ice coffee. Add to that an ice-cold Beerlao (obviously) and take in all that Laos has to offer.

Next stop: Phnom Penh, Cambodia!

Mellow Yellow rating : 💛 💛 💛 💛 💛

What’s Sapa-ning?

As my time in Vietnam was coming to an end, I made my way north to Sapa, a picturesque hill station high in the mountains and a remnant of the French colonial era. The area is very popular with nature and trekking enthusiasts, as it is famous for both its fine, rugged scenery and also for its rich cultural diversity. Sapa and its surrounding regions are home to a multitude of ethnic minorities, the majority of which are the Hmong (pronounced Mong). I had previously heard other travelers often raving about their experience in Sapa and their “authentic home-stay experience” with the local hill-tribe people (I say this in quotation marks because I cringe every time I hear the word “authentic”, or even worse, “off-the-beaten-path”). The first time I heard about Sapa was on my second day in Vietnam. A fellow traveler told me about the vast rice terraces, lush vegetation, and Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam. Truthfully I wasn’t too keen, since I had just come from the Philippines, where I had done a 3 day trek through the rice terraces of Banaue (often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World), and before that did a 3 day trek up the 3,700 meter high volcano of Mount Rinjani in Indonesia. However, with the rave reviews at the back of my mind, a couple of days left to my visa and the discovery that I can cross from Sapa to Laos (and probably most importantly because I wasn’t ready to leave Vietnam), I decided to go for it. Lucky for me, on the overnight bus from Hanoi I ran into the lovely English girls that I had met a couple of weeks before in Nha Trang. As soon as we got off the bus in Sapa we were swarmed by a sea of Hmong sisters, all dressed in black with colorful embroideries and accessorized with silver jewelry and a fez-like headpiece.

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The girls and I found Mama Chu, who greeted us with bracelets and took us to get some breakfast before starting the 10km hike to her village. Even though the weather was quite cloudy, the landscapes and views were absolutely astounding.

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It started to pour as soon as we got to Mama’s, but we were finally home sweet home! We settled in while Mama and her daughters made us dinner in one pan over a small fire. After enjoying the delicious meal all together (consisting of spring rolls, fried morning glory, pork and rice), Mama showed us the different jewelry she had for sale, and gave us each another gift to thank us for staying with her.

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The next morning we started our trek back to Sapa after a breakfast of thick rice pancakes and bananas. About halfway through it started to rain very hard, so we got lifts back to town on motorbikes. The girls were heading back to Hanoi on the evening bus, so we said our goodbyes and I ventured out to find a hostel in the rain (this was just the beginning of my constant struggle with the rain in Sapa).

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I ended up at Mountain View Hostel,  a newly opened hostel in the same family of the Vietnam Backpacker Hostel. I was planning on staying for 2 nights and then getting the bus to Luang Prabang in Laos. It’s funny how plans can change so much. On the day my bus was supposed to leave, I was informed that the road to Laos was “broken” (that’s literally what I was told by the lady at the bus company). So I took some time to figure out what my options were, and somehow ended up staying in Sapa for one week. Between free beers on Sundays, happy hour with 2 for 1 beers everyday, all you can eat and drink ricewine at Mama’s for $2, and obviously the amazing staff, no wonder I got stuck in Hotel California. If you happen to be there when it’s not raining 24/7 there’s plenty to do around Sapa besides the trekking. There is a small market not far from the center and a couple of waterfalls you can motorbike or take a taxi to. You will see Hmong sisters scattered around the town selling trinkets and souvenirs all day. If you’re not used to it they might seem pushy, and when you say no thanks they’ll probably swear at you in Hmong, but they are just as charming and good-humored as they are business savvy. All in all, I had a great time in Sapa and wouldn’t change a thing! Lucky for me, the weather was beautiful on my last day and I got to explore the beautiful town and its surroundings on motorbike, enjoying views of the beautiful rice terrace laden mountains and the valley below.

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Next stop: Laos!

Mellow Yellow rating : 💛 💛 💛 💛 💛

Traveler’s tips : There are many agencies in Hanoi that will book your Sapa home-stay experience for you, but be warned that they are charging you double or even triple and are pocketing the difference. The best thing you can do is find a Hmong sister yourself when you get off the bus, that way you know exactly where your money is going. Also VBH will book a ticket to Laos for you from Hanoi – if you want to leave directly from Sapa (shorter journey but roads are in worse condition) you can book a ticket at the store selling trekking gear with a picture of a bus on the sign, it’s right next to Mountain View Hostel (next door to the bakery).

Manila and the Eighth Wonder of the World

The solo adventure begins! After a cry-fest goodbye with Fred at the airport in Bali, I headed off to Manila on my own. After checking in at the hostel, I discovered that the hostel offered free walking tours of the city, and that it happened to be Independence Day, so there would be a lot happening around the city. We did the Intramuros tour (San Agustín Church, Casa Manila and Fort Santiago) and walked through Rizal Park. We ended the day with some beers by the harbour at sunset, where I discovered Red Horse Extra Strong beer, a welcomed change after a month of Bintang Pilsner beer.  imageimage image image image At night we did a sort of pubcrawl where we ended the night at a bar 71 storeys high, and here I discovered that Manila is the most densely populated city in the world. image

 

After a short stint in Manila it was time to move on elsewhere. As keen as I was to return to the beach, I decided to take an overnight bus up to the north, to a town called Banaue. I heard about the lush 2,000 year old rice terraces that were carved into the mountains of Ifugao by ancestors of the indigenous people. I figured I could spend a couple days there, trekking and exploring the north before eventually heading to the beaches in the south. Once arrived in Banaue, I found a group of three people inquiring about guides for a 3 day hike, and so I tagged along. We wanted to take it easy that day since we were embarking on a 3 day trek the next day, so we went to the nearby hot and cold springs. image image image image image image image image image image

On the first day of our trek we walked through the famous Banaue rice terraces (often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World) and all the way to another village called Cambulo (18km, 9hrs). image image image image image image image image image image image image image

The next morning we visited a nearby elementary school where we got to take some pictures with the kids. We hiked down to a 30 meter high waterfall and then spent the night in Batad (7km, 4 hrs). image image image imageimage image image image image image image image image

On our final day we climbed what seemed like a million steps and walked through the rice terraces once last time before heading back to Banaue (7km, 4hrs). image

 

Our next stop was in Sagada (north of Banaue) where we did a 3 hour hike through the Sumaguing Cave and then walked through Echo Valley to see the hanging coffins. We were explained that the hanging coffins were used in order to avoid occupying land that could be used for farming and because the people “believe in the light”, or to bring them closer to heaven. imageimage image image

 

Next stop: El Nido, Palawan!

MellowYellow rating: 💛💛💛💛💛

Travelers tips: I stayed at OMP (Our Melting Pot) in Manila, really enjoyed my stay and the staff are super helpful (free walking tours, pub crawls, helped me reserve my bus to Banaue). We stayed at Banaue Homestay and booked the guide with them, highly recommended. In Sagada we stayed at Sagada Homestay, nice place as well.

From Kuta Bali to Kuta Lombok (and the challenge of Mount Rinjani)

Kuta Lombok is the antithesis of Kuta Bali; quiet, remote and virtually untouched. On our way we stopped at a traditional Sasak hand weaving village, where we were able to see women weaving different patterns that were taught to them by their mothers, as each family has their own patterns that are passed down from generation to generation. We also got to try our hands at some hand weaving (pun intended) and don the traditional Sasak marriage outfit.

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After an incident involving a giant spider in the shared bathroom on our first night at the hostel, we decided to treat ourselves and book a hotel for the next two nights (a room AND a bathroom all to ourselves! And a hot shower too!) 

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We rented mopeds and discovered the many exquisite beaches Kuta Lombok has to offer. But the real hidden gem here was the people – unfazed by tourists and genuinely good. There are also swarms of kids selling bracelets everywhere, mastering the art of negotiation and improving their English at the same time. Gabrielle must have bought at least 15 of them (bracelets not kids) and was identified the weakest link.

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Once well rested and relaxed, it came time to hike Mount Rinjani – the second highest volcano in Indonesia at 3,726 meters high. We were a little hesitant at first; we had found the collective 4 hour hike up and down Mount Batur to be challenging, so naturally we were wondering whether we were physically and mentally capable of doing a 3 day hike. We ended up booking with an agency and hoped for the best. In the end, in my opinion, the trek was challenging but totally worth it (Fred might say differently). We trekked a total of 25 kilometers over the three days (split out 10/4/11) and camped in tents both nights at approximately 10 degrees Celsius (the temperature at the base must have been above 35 degrees). We were rewarded with breathtaking views that seemed almost unreal, along with an extreme sense of accomplishment – and maybe invincibility – at the end of the three day trek.

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Next stop: Gili Islands!

Mellow Yellow rating: 💛💛💛💛💛

5/5

Travelers tips: Our first night in Kuta we stayed at Full Moon – OK rooms but very “rugged” bathrooms. We stayed at Kuta Cove for two nights – highly recommended. You can rent mopeds almost anywhere. Sonya’s restaurant is delicious – local food at local prices. Every weekend there is a beach party with a 50/50 ratio of locals and tourists – good live music, fire shows and cold beers.  

As for Rinjani, you can book with an agency for ~$130 or book a porter for cheaper but have to take care of supplies yourself. Ask yourself the following questions before booking: 

  1. Do I like trekking and/or rock climbing?
  2. Do I like nature?
  3. Do I like camping?
  4. Am I physically fit?
  5. Can I handle 10 hours per day of walking/climbing/being constantly on the verge of death, not showering, and going to the bathroom in the wild for three days straight? 

If you answered yes to at least one of these questions, then Rinjani might be for you. Good luck and godspeed.